Saturday 14 December 2013

In which I talk rubbish...



My more mature readers may remember a government campaign many years ago entreating us to take care of our countryside.  Adverts persuaded us to follow the country code; closing gates, keeping dogs on a lead, taking litter home.  “Don’t drop litter, put it in a bin,” became a familiar catchphrase.  Overall, the scheme succeeded in drawing public attention to an ugly problem and, despite the array of fast food wrappers, gum spots and unsightly fly-tipping, the British town and countryside are reasonably litter free.  Not so Ghana!

In some of the larger Ghanaian towns and cities, household rubbish collection is currently, slowly being introduced but here in Zebilla no system exists.  The result is streets festooned with the ugly remains of daily life; fields planted with plastic bags, tired shoes, broken bicycle parts…

 

To be fair, I haven’t seen any larger items scattered around – there are no dead fridges, beds and sofas hurled into the riverbed.  Such items are endlessly restored, repaired, renewed, regenerated and with relative ease.  So perhaps in this sense Zebilla is far more resourceful than the UK.  However, the town would hugely benefit from the introduction of our “bag for life”!

Wherever you shop here, your purchases are placed in a “rubber” (plastic bag), the most common being of thin black plastic.  Despite insisting on using our own shopping bag we have amassed a large store of them.  Water is sold cheaply and freely in a ½ litre plastic sachet.  The automatic means of disposal for both of these is to simply throw them on the ground.  The Ghanaian mindset is that rubbish is simply dropped.

 

Household rubbish is dealt with by public burning either individually or communally.  The tracks and paths throughout the town are bordered by such burning sites.  Once alight, the rubbish is left to itself to burn or to scatter in the wind.  In schools, children are in charge of sweeping up the rubbish in the school grounds (where the teachers have dropped their water sachets and food wrappers!) each morning and lighting the fires.  Yes, young children are left to light the fires unsupervised!  School Health and Safety Officers would have a heart attack. (Don’t come to Ghana, Heather!).

Compostable waste is much easier – all you do is chuck it over the fence for the foraging, roaming, domestic animals.  There was one time when we left a “rubber” of waste by our door and we suspect some passing, foraging, hungry children had their fill of our tasty (!) scraps.

Public areas are, therefore, in the main, rather unsightly.  However, individual places are not always so.  The matriarch living opposite is outside every morning by 6.30am sweeping her “yard” with a backbreaking twig broom.  No leaf or rubber is safe on her patch; no grain of sand is left out of place.  Once completed she sits on her wall to admire her handiwork and survey the littered field beyond.  Job done!

 
An efficient broom but it breaks your back!
 
A further cause for concern is the drainage system which is more problematic in the towns and cities.  Drains are open and run alongside the roads and pavements and if you are not careful you can quite easily fall into one and end up basking in the dirty water next to the pigs!  It’s slightly better here in the back streets of Zebilla where the water simply leaves your bath/sink and travels into the dirt paths; rather an unpleasant smell but no danger of falling in!  So, these drains are smelly, mosquito breeding, germ traps and they criss-cross the streets, along with the rubbish, adjacent to the market stalls and shopping booths.

We have encountered a couple of very creative recyclers; one lady who uses the rubbers and sachets to weave baskets and a farmer who uses the sachets like plant pots for his seedlings.  I look forward to meeting many more of these pioneers – their skills are badly needed.
 
 
From such observations I conclude that Ghana is breeding a large rubbish problem which currently the government seems unable to solve.  It may not be a priority to return the countryside to its uncluttered beauty but the health and safety aspects will need to be seriously addressed as the populations in the towns and cities rise.  Developing a better drainage and rubbish collection system may not be very glamorous but perhaps some of the leading charities might like to consider lending a hand in this direction in order to save a life!  












 












 

Tuesday 3 December 2013

In which I get religious...



Statistics maintain that overall, the population in Ghana is Christian with about 15% Muslim.  A strong current of traditional beliefs, superstitions, witchcraft, juju, underlie both of these, especially with the older generations.  Here in the far north, the predominant religion is Islam. Nevertheless, co-existing peacefully with the mosque, you will find a variety of Christian sects: Anglican, Catholic, Presbyterian.

 
                                Zebilla Catholic Church

Religion is extremely important.  Religious gatherings form one of the major opportunities for socializing (that or the local pito (local brew) bar or spot (pub))!  Church services are long and full.  The tro-tros and taxis all have biblical epithets adorning their windows: “in God we trust” and the like.  Everyone wears T shirts and polos with handy quotes or advertising their church.  Interestingly, these are all Christian in origin though the wearers are not.

Your religion is one of the early questions you are asked in introductory conversation.  Most business meetings begin and end with a prayer; Muslim to begin and Christian to end, or vice versa.  On Fridays the office is very quiet as the Muslims visit the mosque at midday and often fail to re-appear; Christians seem to down tools in sympathy!  Likewise the attendance in Islamic schools is poor on Fridays, particularly if it also happens to be a market day and despite the fact that school closes at 12pm instead of the usual 1.30pm.  I’m not sure if other schools close early but my guess would be that they do!

Our house is very near to the Anglican Church.  On Sundays the service can last between 2 and 3 hours.  There are also meetings and services throughout the week.  We are frequently (when I say  “we” I mean “I” since Paul can sleep through an earthquake) woken at 4am by the priest calling his congregation in to prayer.  He uses a megaphone so as to drown out the muezzin who is also in full swing by then!
 

Now that the dry season has begun, the locals have a little more leisure time.  So on Friday evenings they gather in force in the church to have fun.  The drums and other instruments, the singing and dancing, fill the airwaves from 8pm – 11pm when, thankfully, peace resumes.  I say thankfully because, I’m sorry to be critical here, it is not in any way tuneful.  A good African drumming session might be acceptable, even welcome, but no!  We have the modern, pop style band, with very little training or skill.  However, the singers and dancers don’t mind and God is praised in a very jolly and wholehearted fashion.  Perhaps the sound is distorted over the 50 metres to our house and then through our paper thin walls.
 
                                      
                                                    Our neighbouring Anglican Church
 

The drums and cymbals are toned down a little for Sunday worship.  To me, both Friday and Sunday seem, from a short distance, to be very loud and riotous.  It may be the fact that they are conducted in the local language of Kusaal; or that the priest shouts his prayers through the microphone over the top of the chorus.  Either way, I am not tempted in; in fact, quite the opposite – I find the style very aggressive and quite threatening.  So, I prefer my own, more modest times for contemplation, prayer and reflection.  Our Catholic friend is also complaining about the length of the Sunday service and is considering creating his own time.

You don’t have to be a Muslim to attend the Islamic schools but Muslim girls are expected to wear veils.  In primary schools I believe there are Arabic lessons after main school: I think these are optional.  Office buildings have designated mini-mosques and a few prayer mats – not widely frequented but they have occasional use.  A few weeks ago we all enjoyed a National holiday (possibly Eid but we couldn’t work it out).  On this occasion the Muslims were out in force, visiting the mosque and afterwards forming a wonderful parade through the little street of Zebilla displaying all their fine clothes.  Very beautiful!

Despite the importance of these formal religions the old traditions persist.  During one of our school screening sessions we discovered a boy, probably 9 or 10, with extremely poor vision (possibly blind in one eye) and red, sore eyes.  When his father was called in to school he told us that at the child’s birth, the placenta had not been disposed of correctly (some kind of ritual involving burning) and therefore the boy was cursed.  Consequently nothing could be done about his eyes.  My Special Educational Needs Officer tried his best to persuade them to visit the hospital but we are still uncertain of his success.  Without treatment this boy is suffering unnecessarily.

There are other stories about children born with a disability – “spirit” children.  There is a strong belief in witchcraft and witches can be blamed for all manner of misfortunes.  Most of these children are hidden away; some are “disposed of”.  I had read this in my guide book before I arrived but I didn’t really believe it could happen in this day and age.  Well, it does!  Part of my role here is to add weight to the argument that treatment is available and there is no witchcraft involved in disability; they call it “sensitizing the community”.  The aim: to get these children and adults out into the open, treated, nurtured and enjoying life.

And on that note, I will close.  God Bless!